DAY 39 – SAYING GOODBYE TO EUROPE, FOR NOW

This is it – my last day in Europe. What a whirlwind – definitely the Trip of a Lifetime.

            I wake up early, hoping that will have me sleep on the long plane ride home. Then I finish packing. I haven’t picked up much along the way – but I do decide to discard a few things, just to make a bit more room in my luggage. Somehow it feels like I have a lot less stuff now, but I think I just keep getting better at packing as I go along.

            I check out of the hotel and head out early – just for a last bit of wandering. I know I need to plan to get to the airport early – it’s more crowded now, 5 weeks later. And officially it’s a 1-hour bus ride to the airport, but there’s a ton of construction at the airport so I’m leaving extra early.

            On the way to meet the Airport Shuttle, I hope to do a last little shopping along these Paris streets – but most of the shops are still closed this early, so I stop at a café for breakfast instead. They advertise Pizza Crepes, but I opt for a pastry and some fresh-squeezed orange juice. As I make my way post-breakfast, I am stopped by a Frenchman who asks me for directions – and (amazingly) I knew exactly where he needed to go.

            The airport shuttle starts at the beautiful Opera House, then winds its way on a lumpy bumpy ride through Paris streets to the airport.

            Charles de Gaulle Airport is humongous – and even just Terminal 2 has 13 sections, with 50 gates each. And, of course, I’m in the last section and at the very last gate. Even efficient as they are, there are just sooooo many people to process. I get to the airport early so I don’t risk running late – and so I have some time to chill out before the flight. Besides, the stores at the Paris Airport are Prada, Ferragamo, Fendi – so it’s a fun place to browse through.

            Although I’m ready to get home, there’s also a sadness that this amazing trip is coming to an end. I watch Paris fade into the distance – but I also know that I’ll be back. Europe has won over a piece of my heart.

DAY 38 – THE PALACE OF VERSAILLE

The sprawling gardens at Versailles

My last full day in Paris, so I decide to spend it at Versailles. After a quick breakfast of fruit & croissants, I hop a train to Versailles.

            The Village at Versailles is just what you picture for a quaint, high-end Parisian neighborhood. Lovely shops, stylish women, adorable older couples. Since it’s Saturday there is what we would call a Flea Market (in the U.S.) and it's set-up next to the permanent market halls. The city sets up dozens of the canopied booths each weekend, and merchants bring their wares of all types. And the 4 permanent halls have meats, cheeses, prepared foods, and all sorts of individual merchants – each selling their unique specialties.

            I continue on to the stunning park-like walking street, lined with hundreds-years-old trees – leading directly to the palace. It’s the hottest day I’ve had this trip – about 90+ degrees, and the trees provide some very welcomed shade.

            The Palace of Versailles is spectacular – massive, with a magnificent gold gleaning wrought iron fence encircling it. I hop in line and begin my wandering. No tour group this time, just the audio tour (which is really quite good). Within the palace there are sections filled with beautiful period art – a wonderful selection of tall marble sculptures along with a dizzying array of oil portraits. And room after room of exquisite and ornate furniture – lots of bedrooms, but many sitting rooms many of which have beautiful desks. There’s a stunning Library. And a Music Room with 2 Harpsichords that were sadly covered up. (I’ve always wanted a harpsichord.)

            After the palace, I then mosey out to the gardens. There are 800 hectares, which (according to Google) is nearly 2000 acres – including 50 fountains. It’s so sprawling that they provide a map of the gardens with suggested routes to take so that you are able to see everything efficiently. I chose my route and began strolling. In this heat I melt (the humidity is doing me in) – but I have a hat, sunglasses, and water so I persevere. A few hours later I’m a sweaty mess – and listening to the whining children around me helps me realize it’s time to get somewhere cool to grab a drink (since my water is long since gone). I head to the Tea Room, set in the Palace in the Suite of Louis Something-or-Other (I can’t remember which; there were a lot of Louis.) I order a sparkling water and yummy dessert, and just sit to cool and relax before heading back on the train.

            A perfect way to spend my last full day in Paris.

DAY 37 – THE LOUVRE

Inside the famous glass pyramid
of The Louvre.

Today is all about The Louvre. I picked today because the museum is open late on Friday nights. And the glass pyramid is stunning all lit up in the evenings.

            I leave the hotel and meander my way through the streets of Paris. Unfortunately most shops don’t open until 11am or Noon – so it’s mostly window shopping. I was going to have Hagen-Daas for breakfast, but alas, they were closed.

            Instead I head to the Palais du Louvre and eat at a lovely café on the plaza – with the perfect view of the glass pyramid. (And the artichoke was lovely!)

            Then time for my tour of the Louvre, with a darling little French guide. This place is enormous – with over 400 rooms and more than 35,000 pieces of art. It’s the largest museum in the world. In our 2½-hour tour we see the basics – Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, etc., but so much more remains unseen. So after the tour ends, I venture off on my own for a few more hours.

            There’s so much to see that I end up going in circles. But even walking down halls I’ve walked before, there are still new things to see that I missed the first time. And I’m grateful for the occasional empty bench to sit and rest along the way.

            After 7 hours, I’m tired, overwhelmed, and emotionally filled. I don’t know why I don’t go to museums very often at home, because I always enjoy them. Unfortunately, this time I found no secret clues hidden in the museum (and I always enjoy a good mystery.)

DAY 36 – THE BEGINNING OF THE END

Time to leave Basel and bid Aufwiedersehen to Switzerland. Today marks the last leg of my trip – and I’m heading back to Paris for my last few days.

            After I check out of my hotel, I stroll through the neighborhood and lovely park that’s not far from my hotel. I could hear tennis being played nearby, and wandered over to find people playing on a clay tennis court – which I’ve never seen in the U.S. Nearby I found a stand selling pastries, so I grabbed some sort of deliious ham & cheese pastry, and sat and ate – and watched people stroll by.

            Eventually I meandered on, taking the long route toward the train station, and passed an inordinate number of hair salons – all open, but quite empty. There also seems to be an architect shop on almost every block too – with the fascinating 3-D miniatures of their projects displayed in the front window.

            Maybe I’m uninformed of current trends, but here I have seen modernized versions of old-style perambulators quite frequently – which add to the ambiance of these charming old neighborhoods. If the moms had been toting parasols, it would have been perfect.

            In due time I get to the Basel Train Station, which is huge (30+ tracks) and has a large numer of shops and eateries. I grab some Pelligrino for my 4-hour train ride, and stroll through shops until time to board my train.

            After a random unexplained delay, I arrive in Paris and get to my hotel – this time, right in the heart of Paris. It’s late, so I grab a Lebanese sandwich – and order Lebanese Cheesecake called Knefeh, which is nothing like cheesecake but is actually Cheese Cake. It’s more like a light cornbread with melted mozzarella – served warm so the cheese is still melty – then drizzled with a simple syrup. It was interesting and good – but you’ll never find this stuff at The Cheesecake Factory.

DAY 35 – BASEL SWITZERLAND

Beautiful view of Basel from the shore of
the Rhine River, with the lovely
ancient cathedral rising up in the distance.

I headed out to just wander around, explore, find something to eat. They have an electric rail system here, and I got a free pass from my hotel – but walking seemed more interesting. It’s been raining off and on all night and early morning, but I decide to risk it.

            Fortunately most eating establishments have a menu out front – and although my German is nicht so gut, I know enough to sort out most dishes. Unfortunately most have 42 kinds of bier and drink, but only 3 food items – and an astounding frequency seems to be pasta. Instead I stop in a Pastry shop and grab a brat & cheese in a croissant, and continue on.

            The Rhine River is only a mile away, so I head towards the water. The Rhine runs from the Swiss Alps to the North Sea. It’s the second longest river in Europe, and I’ve wanted to get to it since a friend did a Rhine River Cruise a few years ago.

            As I’ve wandered these past few weeks, I’ve noticed that lots of these little neighborhoods have florist shops – far more common than in the cities I’ve lived in the past 20 years. And these seem to keep pretty busy. Both men and women coming out with bunches of flowers – and it reminds me how nice it is to have fresh flowers in the house. Something I haven’t done in many years.

            Eventually I decide on a restaurant for dinner, and although I planned on eating something more uniquely Swiss – when I saw the burger ordered at a nearby table, I opted for that. I don’t eat a lot of burgers (and I’m especially not too keen on fast food) – but this burger was FABULOUS! The meat was so flavorful. Sandrine keeps telling me about fabulous meat she gets from a local farmer in France, and that’s exactly what this tasted like. Probably the best burger I’ve ever had in my life. (What on earth are we doing to our food in the U.S.???)

            Post dinner I head back toward the hotel, but not without stopping at a little Coffee House that serves Tiramisu – which was the perfect ending to a lovely day wandering around Basel Switzerland.

DAY 34 – LEAVING ZERMATT

My original plans had been to go through Basel Switzerland, then on to Cherbourg to visit Sandrine again – but I cannot find any options to book a train to Cherbourg on any day, even routing through others stops along the way. I had this problem when I first got here, but since then booking everything has been so easy that I didn’t realize it would be a problem. (I would even consider a BlaBlaBus – but can’t even find availability there.) 

            I contact Sandrine and let her know of my challenge, and end up just changing my plans to spend an extra day in Basel Switzerland again, before heading straight to Paris. I’m disappointed that I won’t get to see Sandrine before I leave – but this definitely won’t be my last trip to Europe, so I’ll just plan on visiting her again next time.

            After being here in Zermatt for over a week, packing back up takes a bit longer. I’ve really settled in here, and it has been lovely. Some fabulous Day Adventures, a few trips down to the Spa Salon in the basement (I mean, it’s right here and a lovely way to spend a few hours), and lovely picnic dinners out on my balcony – it doesn’t get better than that.

            One last beautiful sunrise on my balcony, a lovely breakfast at the hotel, and some more time reviewing train schedules before updating my Basel hotel reservation – and I’m off to town for a last stroll past the beautiful stone church & pretty little cemetery, lovely little shops, and maybe a stop in a bakery or two.

            And this means that I will get an extra day in Basel Switzerland. Not what I was planning, but you’ve got to turn lemons into lemonade, right?

DAY 33 – CABLE CAR TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD

Time to get a different view of The Matterhorn. Flying just over my hotel balcony every day are cable cars that sail right up to the top of the mountains. I’ve watched them sail overhead for miles, so far that I can’t see them anymore – they become small dots in the distance, then disappear. The weather this morning was perfect – so I walked the 50 meters to the station and boarded.

            With a car all to myself, I could sit back and enjoy the 360-degree views as I glided up the mountainside. There are a few stops along the way, but I just wanted to get to the top.

            At times we soar high above the ground – other times we seem to almost brush the treetops. But the whole way the ground is strewn with jagged rocks – definitely not a place you want to get stuck.

            Zermatt is periodically visible in the distance – and soon jagged rocks are replaced with snow and a sloughing melting glacier.

            There are still some clouds today, but as I head upward they are mostly just wispy ones – so the views of all the mountains is spectacular. Thicker clouds are in the distance, so this amazing view probably won’t hold for long.

            We get to the top of the Kleine Matterhorn – the Matterhorn’s baby brother. The air is thin here – there’s a restaurant that boasts the elevation of 3883 meters (12,740 feet). I head in for a late lunch and a lovely view – and score a corner table. The food is only mediocre – but the view is sooooo worth it, and I just pick at my food. From this vantage point I can see both the Italian Alps and the Swiss Alps – and a small Italian town nestled in the foothills. As I sit there, thick clouds roll in – with the blue sky tries to peek through.

            After lunch, I head toward the elevator going down INTO the glacier. They have carved tunnels in the glacier and created a Glacier Palace – ice tunnels filled with ice sculptures. Even in the afternoon it’s only 37-degrees up here on the mountaintop, and considerably colder inside the glacier tunnels.

            As the afternoon winds down and there is a momentary break in the clouds, I head back to the lift to head back to Zermatt. A lovely ride back down, and perfect timing as the Matterhorn breaks through the clouds and journeys with me.

DAY 32 – ANOTHER RAINY DAY

Although the app said the weather would clear by now, it hasn’t. As I sit out on the balcony, the Matterhorn makes brief appearances between the clouds -- but it’s rainy or drizzly all day long. And I couldn't be happier about it -- I actually LOVE rainy days. Another day for more writing, and more time in Finland in my novel (if you know Annette Lyon, you’ll understand why Finland).

            One of the things I love here is the fruit. I have eaten dozens and dozens of apricots, nectarines, cherries – but ooooooh, the Figs. I love figs. And I regularly grab them while shopping (or even from a lovely neighbor in Provo) – and they’ve all been about apricot-size. But THESE Figs – literally filled the palm of my hand. And the flavor – WOW! I am definitely going to miss the amazing fruit when I head home.

For dinner, more fruit and a Cup of Noodles – using the electric tea kettle I borrowed from the Front Desk. And this was the FASTEST boiling water I’ve ever seen – faster than even my microwave at home. (I might need to get one of these.) And a nice cup of peppermint tea to top it off.

            Might sound like a boring day to some – but I can’t remember the last time I had a whole day to just read and write – two of my most favorite things in the world. I’m sure the last time was before I went back to college a few years ago. For the 4+ years I was in school (with only a brief break between degrees), I felt like all my spare time had to be reading for school. And I’ve read a few Personal Development books along the way – but not anything as luxurious as a novel. I’d forgotten how fabulous it is to get lost in the pages of a novel – and how much I prefer it to mindlessly watching movies.

DAY 31 – FONDUE

It’s a lovely crisp day. It’s 106-degrees at home – the high here in Zermatt is 56 today. I grab my denim jacket as I head out – and even consider a scarf.

            Another bus ride – this time for a restaurant that serves Fondue. I mean, I can’t come here and NOT do fondue. Le Gruyere even sponsors the bus line here – cheese is what this place excels in.

            I find a place that will serve Fondue for one (most places require at least two). Even with the chill in the air, I prefer to sit outside – to enjoy the scenery. The Matterhorn drifts in and out of view in the breaks in the clouds.

            Fondue is just cheese and bread – I mean, it doesn’t get more basic than that. But there is something so magical about Fondue. (Why did we default to Grilled Cheese when we could have done fondue???)

            I used to make Fondue a lot. I’d buy all the different cheeses, the Kirschwasser, and all sorts of fruits and veggies to dip – sometimes even chocolate with marshmallows too. I gave away much of my fondue equipment when I moved last year, but I have no doubt that I’ll break out the Fondue set I kept as soon as I get home. This is divine!

DAY 30 – A PERSONAL SPA DAY

My original plan was for a massage and pedicure while I was here. But massages are ridiculously expensive, and the nearest pedicure is 30 miles away in the next town. So I opted for Plan B.

            While I was in town previously, I went into the Farmacie (that’s how they spell it here) – and they had a nice selection of individual serving packets of spa treatments, so I had grabbed a few things for some self-pampering sometime this week. Since it’s supposed to rain later today, it seemed like the perfect day for a Personal Spa Day.

            The hotel has a beautiful Sauna/Spa Suite, so I schedule some time to have the place all to myself. I grab the big thirsty bathrobe from the hotel room, and my spa stuff – and head down to the lower level. When I get there a carafe of ice cold water, cool peppermint tea, and that lovely woo-woo spa music is all ready and waiting for me. I hop in the oversize spa shower and put a deep conditioner in my hair, a mud masque on my face, feet softener (my poor feet have been in sandals all month with far more walking than expected), and a sugar scrub for my hands – then wrap up in the robe and pop into the toasty warm sauna. A hot sauna on a cool day is a great thing. I sit in there in the bathrobe and lounge in the heat as long as I can stand. Then pop into a slightly cool adjacent shower (they recommend a COLD shower, but I just can’t).

            Then the chaise loungers are just the perfect angle to sit and chill-out – and I even fall asleep. (I love the woo-woo music.) Now all completely relaxed, I head back to my room – and one of the few English channels is showing Sense & Sensibility. (I’d seen the ad, and timed things perfectly.) All soft and warm and relaxed, I fall asleep before the romantic ending.

DAY 29 – COGWHEEL TRAIN

Zermatt has a Cogwheel Train that goes up to the top of the mountains, up past the Matterhorn. And since I love trains, I just had to. This is the 125^th Anniversary of this train, and it’s actually pretty popular.

            It starts right in the heart of Zermatt, so I grab a seat by the window – and even though it’s still a bit cool (and cooler as we head up the mountain, I still opt to open the window.

We start by riding past the edge of the town, and you can really see how many apartments/condos/hotels there are here. I can’t identify one single-family dwelling, but I’m sure there are a few.

It’s a beautiful train – and a spectacular view. As we get outside of town, we are riding through beautiful tall pines – and the crisp mountain air with all these pines gives me a hint of a Christmas smell.

Winding up the mountain, the Matterhorn ever looming in every view. And below the valley looks small and far away. This is a fast and steep elevation climb, and you can feel it in the air. In the distance you can see other snow-topped peaks also.

The wheels screech on some of the turns. This is an all-electric train, and I think it always has been. There are a few stops along the way, but I’m all about getting to the top.

It’s cold up here, and there’s a bit of wind. I envy those in puffer jackets and with mittens. But I am grateful for the scarf/shawl/wrap that I tucked into my luggage – just in case.

And once at the top – WOW! The views are stunning. I’m not sure the names of all the mountains in the distance – but they are quite a sight to behold. Whatever amazing things you’ve heard about The Alps – they’re all true.

DAY 28 – BACK INTO ZERMATT

After breakfast, I hop back on the e-bus and ride the other route to get a better feeling for this charming little village. I hop off at the beautiful old stone church in the middle of town. In the frontyard are some very unusual headstones of some mountaineers that perished. And across the road is the prettiest little cemetery I’ve ever seen.

            This time I stop in almost every shop. There are lots of expensive fine jewelry stores – there’s a dedicated Rolex store here, so that lets you know the clientele that frequents Zermatt. Souvenier shops are filled with Swiss Army Knives, Swiss Watches, and Cow Bells – along with the typical souvenir bric-a-brac. I haven’t been buying souvenirs on this trip – just because I’d have to drag them all over Europe with me, and I’ve already overpacked. (This is a huge departure for me, remembering the time I bought TWO Bathroom sinks in Ensenada as souvenirs on a cruise! Not my smartest move.)

            The streets are busy, but I do stop into a Backerie and grab a yummy-looking cookie. Something with Almonds and dried fruit -- all smothered in beautiful creamy Swiss milk chocolate. These guys sure know how to do bread -- and people tend to shop for bread and groceries every day here. I grab a bratwurst from a street vendor on my way back to the hotel -- and it's fabulous. I'd forgotten how good real German Brats are.

            There are Lilac trees everywhere here, and they’re just coming into bloom. I absolutely love the White Lilacs especially. The whole town smells like lilacs – and it’s really lovely. 

DAY 27 – A DAY TO RELAX

A day to relax. I mean, why pay for a stunning view and not take time to enjoy it? I sleep in and then head down for a lovely continental breakfast at the hotel. The bar in the hotel has ice and sparkling water – so after some good charades to make my request I get a beer stein filled (the little juice glasses they use for everything is just insufficient). Then I grab the little notebook I bought in Barcelona and head out to the beautiful backyard before the weather changes. An old picnic table with a sheepskin to sit on beckons to me, and I sit and write in my journal for hours and hours. It’s one of my favorite pasttimes, and especially lovely sitting at the foot of The Matterhorn.

            I decide to take a break – and I watch a Star Trek movie (I’m totally a Trekkie) – and then opt for a nap. (I mean, I am on vacation.) I love to sleep with my doors open (I’m on the 4^th floor, so only Spiderman can get to me) – and I awake to much cooler temperatures and a rapidly greying sky. Soon enough I see the clouds rolling in, right up to my balcony. The elevation is so high here that clouds sit like fog on the hillsides all around – and soon the majestic Matterhorn has disappeared completely.

I grab my trusty denim jacket and sit out on the balcony to enjoy the storm and do some more writing – and soon hear thunder in the distance, heading this way. Fortunately this balcony has an overhang, so even in the rain I can sit out and still stay dry. I read on my Kindle app for a bit (still struggling with the fact that I didn’t bring a “real” book along). Before I left I downloaded an Annette Lyon romance, ironically set in Europe. I don’t read romances very often (I guess to many years of schoolwork-focus consumed all my reading) – so getting lost in a wholesome & clean romance is a lovely departure.

DAY 26 – ZERMATT SWITZERLAND

Today is a day to check out this charming little town and grab some groceries. Restaurants here are very expensive, so I’ll grab some things to keep in my hotel room for when I don’t feel like going out.

            Zermatt is an auto-free town – and the main streets are designed for walking. It’s only about a mile end-to-end. There are free electric buses on two different but intersecting routes – so I opt to hop on the bus, and I get to see the city better that way too.

            Almost every building in this town is finished in natural wood, white stucco, or stone. And most of the buildings have balconies which are lined with flower boxes filled with coral geraniums or pink & purple petunias. The only bright colors are the flowers or the beautiful flags hanging from rooftops down the middle of the street.

            And the few vehicles that are allowed are also all electric. (Not like a Tesla – think electric worktruck from China.) There are a number of these electric worktrucks, hired out to do all the deliveries around town. – plus some e-shuttles for the hotels. And e-car taxis – that are 30 SFR (Swiss Franc) to town. That’s about $30 for a 1-mile ride. YIKES! The only “real” car I saw was a police car (and I think there is only the one). Not only does it eliminate the pollution from the vehicles, but it’s soooooooo much quieter because of it.

DAY 25 – MONTREUX TO ZERMATT

First view of The Matterhorn from the balcony
of my hotel room, just after sunset.

I awoke early and sat out on the hotel balcony, overlooking the lake for a while. Then, because I skipped dinner last night, I checked out of my hotel and walked along the waterfront, looking for breakfast. I found a cute little street café, and opted for Croque Messier (nowhere near as good as on the Champs Elysees). It’s a quiet Sunday morning, with few people out and about. There’s a drummer on the street corner – and church bells in the distance. And sailboats crisscrossing the lake. It’s the stuff of romance novels – which doesn’t quite fit this traveler flying solo.

            Although the shops are closed, I windowshop. Clothing with colors too vibrant for me, and shoes that are beautiful but do NOT look comfy. There’s an amazing lighting shop, with a centuries-worth of exquisite antique lamps and chandeliers – the window stuffed so full it’s difficult to distinguish individual lamps. The myriad of crystals and strings of tiny beads somehow either magnificently preserved or lovingly restored.

            Another train ride today. Yesterday was about getting near The Alps – their majestic peaks visible through every twist and turn. Today it’s about getting right into the heart of The Alps.

            I change trains at Visp, Switzerland, and there’s a stiff breeze. It’s cooler here – barely 80-degrees at the hottest of the day, which makes sense as all the peaks of the surrounding mountains are still snow-capped, even this late in June.

            I arrive at my destination – Zermatt, Switzerland. It’s literally the end-of-the-line for trains. And because it’s so remote, it even makes unscheduled stops at little one-horse “towns” along the way – for many, their only access to the outside world.

            Zermatt is right at the foot of The Matterhorn. Skiing in the winter, hiking/biking in the summer. It’s cooler here – highs in the mid-60s, lows in the upper-40s. A far cry from the 100+-degrees this time of year at my new home in the Arizona desert.

            And Zermatt will be my vacation spot while on vacation. I’ll stay just over a week. Moving around every few days has been wonderful – and exhausting. And I’ve decided on this beautiful locale for some respite.

DAY 24 – THE GOLDEN PASS EXPRESS TRAIN

Time to bid Arrivederci to Milan. My hotel was OK – Milan is expensive, and this was more like a dorm room with a private bath. It was horribly decorated in a peach color that wasn’t even in style in the 90s – but it was clean and the owners were nice.

            From Milan I headed for Lucern, Switzerland. I’d heard about the Golden Pass Express Train, and planned my travels to include it. According to some sources, it’s the most beautiful train ride in the world – through the Swiss Alps.

            The Polizia were checking passports as we boarded, which slowed things down a bit – but fortunately this train had reserved seating. The First Class Train Car (which cost me all of $13) only has 14 seats – and there were 4 other Americans on board. They all got off together at the first stop, an adorable village named Como (on Lake Como) – and I was tempted to hop off with them. But my schedule didn’t allow for it this time – so I settled into an empty train car to enjoy my ride.

            Today is all about The Ride. Lovely comfortable trains, with huge panoramic windows, winding through the mountains. Charming villages and beautiful lakes coming in and out of view. THIS is what makes train travel so charming. I had brought the necessities with me: some Frizzante Acqua (sparking water), delicious cheese, and Swiss chocolate – what more could I need?

            As time drew on, the views of Italian vineyards were replaced by Swiss orchards – an amazing number of them Espaliered. And home styles morphed as town by town passed by. There were two sure ways I knew we had crossed the border: the announcements went from Italian and English to German and English, and police again boarded – and I was asked for my passport again.

            As I listened to the German, Frau Mahabir’s junior-high German class came flooding back. In high school I could carry on a decent conversation in German, but that was many many moons ago – and I regret that I didn’t have the opportunity to keep it up.

           

The Golden Pass Express ends at Montreux, Switzerland – so I had reserved a hotel for the night. Montreux is right on Lake Geneva, so I booked a room with a balcony and a view of the lake. I got settled in as the sunset, so I sat there and watched the sun reflecting on the water as it set in the west – and stayed out there as the moon rose in the sky. I have no idea if any restaurants serve good dinners, because I was so mesmerized by the view that I opted for a granola bar on the balcony. And I sat out there until people on the street below started to finally quiet down, quite late.

            If you’re ever in Switzerland and have the chance to ride the Golden Pass Express – do it! And get tickets in the nose, right up front. It’s an unparalleled view and experience.

DAY 23 – SFORZESCO CASTLE & MICHELANGELO’S PIETA & DA VINCI’S VINEYARD

One of the places that Alessia recommended visiting was Sforesco Castle in Milan, so I headed out. It’s HUGE and very impressive, set right in the middle of the city and beautifully reserved. The Castle walls are incredible – and the detail at every entrance is beautiful.

            Inside the castle is a small museum that houses Michelangelo’s The Pieta – the unfinished sculpture of “Mary mourning over the emaciated body of the dead Christ.” (There’s another Pieta in Florence, this is the Milan Pieta.) It’s a small section of the castle, and it’s interesting to see this unfinished piece – where the legs are smooth an finished, but the faces are still rough-hewn and in process. You can tell that it would have been an amazing piece when finished.

Behind the castle is a huge beautiful park (from the 1906 Worlds Fair) dotted with a few café stand, and park benches nestled in the shade under magnificent trees that have seen centuries of history. And the shade is appreciated, because it’s 92-degrees and still rising – and like most big cities in Europe the air quality is “Very Poor”, which I have definitely noticed. I don’t know how so many also smoke so much here.

            I then walked to the Da Vinci Vineyard, which was gifted to Leonardo by the Duke of Milan. There’s a large mansion, but only a few rooms are open to the public – with a beautiful garden nestled behind these walls. It’s like a secret garden hidden in the middle of the city, and it’s very charming.

            Then over to the Museum of Science and Technology – where, appropriately were the first automatically flushing toilets I’ve seen in my journey (in a co-ed bathroom, which is common, but I’m still getting used to.) Although there are other things here, I headed straight for the Da Vinci exhibit. I’ve always been fascinated by his inventions and mesmerized by his perpetual motion machines – many of which are displayed here. And he invented stuff for wool & silk making, printing presses, coin manufacture, and all sorts of random stuff. Some of it even too advanced for what they were able to make at the time.

            And on the way back to the hotel, there was a playful dog (on a leash) jumping up try to catch one of the pigeons swirling by. He was so cute and floppy that I couldn’t help but laugh, and his owner stopped as she was passing me. It’s been 3 weeks without Pippa, and I told her that I was missing my dog – as she let me pet hers. Just a loving floppy dog, with bangs hanging down over his eyes. I so wanted to just scoop him up for Puppy Snuggles, but that didn’t quite seem appropriate on the streets of Milan – so I let them continue on their way. And I grabbed my phone and scrolled through pictures of my Pippa. (Not sure I can make it 5 weeks without her!)

DAY 22 – ALESSIA & THE BEST STORE EVER

Today is just a day to roam around Milan. A quick breakfast at the hotel and I’m off and wandering. I end up in an area with a lot of upscale stores, so I just windowshopped and wandered.

            Then I met up with another old friend from my days at Tahitian Noni. Hard to believe I left Noni almost 10 years ago. Alessia lives here in Milan (she’s Italian, so that makes sense), and for a while we talked on the phone nearly every day for work. Today we met at the Garibaldi Train station, and her familiar voice rang out as soon as she saw me. A few minutes of hugs and hellos, and we headed to a cute Cake Shop for a treat while we visited. (OMG – the Pistachio Frappe was amazing!)

            It was fun to catch up after so many years. Her little girl isn’t quite so little anymore. And we talked about all the wonderful Noni coworkers we had over the years – catching up about some and wondering about others. You can tell true friendships because the talking flows smoothly and doesn’t stop – and we chatted away endlessly for hours.

            Soon it was time for her to get home to her family, so we said our goodbyes – and grabbed a quick selfie.

            Then I found heaven on earth! There it was -- my perfect store in this mall – RED: Read Eat Dream. It’s a Bistro Bookstore! These Italians are GENIUSES!!! I browsed the aisles for a time, then ordered a lovely Chicken Cesar Salas for dinner and flipped through a few books while I ate – which is totally acceptable here. Sure, Barnes & Nobles mostly have Starbucks, and Borders used to have a little café – this this is a REAL restaurant, menu, waiter, and all. If I ever pick up and suddenly move to Italy, it will probably be because of this store.

DAY 21 – MILAN– THE DUOMO & THE LAST SUPPER

Not my photo, but the
prettiest pic I could find.

I started my day with a continental breakfast provided at the hotel – the first one so far this trip. Many hotels had begun eliminating them or charging for them before the pandemic, and nowadays having them included has almost disappeared. I rarely pay for them, because they seem overpriced – and I’d rather grab a nice breakfast at café, usually for the same price. The nicest part of it being included is that I could eat before leaving the hotel, which means that I can just start my day and not have to look for anything until late afternoon.

            One of the reasons I picked this hotel was its accessibility to public transport. There’s a tram right across the street, and the Metro (subway) is just down the block. I pulled out my 2,20 Euro and walked to the Tram. The driver didn’t accept cash, neither did the ticket machine (and neither the driver or the few passengers up front spoke English). Public transport is usually easy, so I went online (on my phone) and bought a 2-day pass. But they don’t email or text it to you – and there’s only ONE location in all of Milan to pick it up, and it’s clear across town. (None of the steps indicated this while purchasing.) So I figured I might as well see that part of town – but honestly NO ONE scans tickets, and I did have a receipt if I got stopped.

            I headed down to The Duomo (yes, apparently every city has one) – and this one is in the heart of Milan, and it’s massive. It’s as wide as a football field, and nearly 2 football fields long – it’s over 350-feet tall, and it took 6 centuries to build. This is a church – an enormous, and absolutely exquisite cathedral. And since I cannot do better, here are Mark Twain’s words on this beautiful cathedral:

"Toward dusk, we drew near Milan and caught glimpses of the city and the blue mountain peaks beyond. But we were not caring for these thing--they did not interest us in the least. We were in a fever of impatience; we were dying to see the renowned cathedral! We watched--in this direction and that--all around--everywhere. We needed no one to point it out--we did not wish anyone to point it out--we would recognize it even in the desert of the great Sahara. At last, a forest of graceful needles, shimmering in the amber sunlight, rose slowly above the pygmy housetops, as one sometimes sees, in the far horizon, a gilded and pinnacled mass of cloud lift itself above the waste of waves, at sea--the Cathedral! We knew it in a moment. Half of that night, and all of the next day, this architectural autocrat was our sole object of interest. What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems in the soft moonlight only a fairy delusion of frost-work that might vanish with a breath! How sharply its pinnacled angles and its wilderness of spires were cut against the sky, and how richly their shadows fell upon its snowy roof! It was a vision!--a miracle!--an anthem sung in stone, a poem wrought in marble! 

            Then on to see Leonardo Da Vinci's painting, The Last Supper. They've recently turned the chamber it's in into an almost hermetically sealed room. Only 15 at a time, and only for 15 minutes -- to make sure that the moisture and temperature remain ideal for the painting. It's even more breathtaking than I imagined. And there's something so gentle and loving about the way Christ is depicted. No doubt the artist was inspired by God.

DAY 20 – ITALIAN VERSIONS OF AMERICAN GAMES

Well, it’s time to leave Florence. I check out of my hotel – which was an old 14^th century Palace, that now is a 6-room hotel. (It sounds cooler than it actually ended up being.) And I slowly wind my way toward the train station. I take another lap through the Leather District (just to see if there is something that I just can’t live without. There isn’t.) And I saunter down to the Duomo again, and take a lap around the Baptistry.

            Along the way I stop in a cute Toy Store. It’s funny to see Italian versions of classic American Games:  Vita (Life), Cluedo (Clue), Taco Gatto Capra Cacio Pizza (Taco Cat Goat Cheese Pizza) – and my favorite L’Allegro Chirurgo (Operation), which translates to “The Merry Surgeon”. I watched a security guard stalking a young man with a backpack, and he tried to catch him by throwing a security tag at his feet as he walked through the sensors (sneaky!) – but he missed, and the young man continued walking, unaware.

            Another lovely train ride, with a snack box – but this time the Silcenzio car was completely full. Mostly Italian businessmen – most with laptops or books to read. No chitchat on this train ride – just silenzio. which was just great because it allowed me to watch the Italian countryside roll by, completely uninterrupted.

            Once in Milan, I grabbed a taxi (I was too tired to figure out the Metro system this evening) – and I ended up with an adorable taxi driver. He was probably in his 70s, and he was car-dancing to U.S. music from the 1970s – it was totally delightful.  His English was about like my Italian, but smiles are universal.

            He dropped me off at the hotel gate, and I was greeted with the delicate scent of honeysuckle as I entered the front courtyard. Unfortunately that’s where the scent stopped. But that’s OK, because it had been a long day and I was tired. Time to rest up to see Milan tomorrow.

DAY 19 – VESPA TOUR OF TUSCANY

So what’s more Italian than riding a Vespa through the Italian country side? How about crashing on a Vespa on an old country road in Italy! (UGH!) First, don’t ride with tourists – they have zero experience. And apparently my reflexes are fast enough to avoid getting hit by a reckless Vespa, but not good enough to avoid the curb she pushed me into. I’m fine. A few bruises – mostly to my ego. Other than that it was a lovely ride through the Tuscan hillside.

            After that I decided to stick to walking. I decided to walk through Florence and explore a bit more. There is a Selfie Museum, but instead I chose the Pinocchio Museum—called Museo Del Giocattolo e Di Pinocchio. The original story was written right here in Florence, and they are very loyal to the original style of Pinocchio – and not the Disney version. Very charming.

            And then I stopped at a restaurant I had heard about – Restaurant Natalino. Reservations are needed, and totally worth it. I started with a (raw) Zucchini Salad with Parmesan and Pine Nuts – drizzled with Truffle Oil. And then had Pear-stuffed Ravioli w Pine Nuts, in a Gorgonzola Sauce. One of the best meals I’ve ever had.

            I strolled through the Leather District and looked at all the amazing leatherwork – then decided to turn in early to let my bruised ego heal.

 

[And yes, I’m really fine. I write a few days behind – for safety reasons, and the bruises aren’t bad and are already starting to fade.]

DAY 18 – FLORENCE & THE STATUE OF DAVID

I got up early, anxious to see Florence. I wandered the streets for a while, popping in and out of shops – then found a café with an American breakfast (basically an Italian breakfast with added eggs and ham).

            Then I headed off to join a walking tour of Florence, since so many of the sites are packed into a fairly small area of the city. Our guide pointed out statues and buildings along the way, as we made our way to the museum that houses Michelangelo’s status of David. It’s definitely the main attraction in the museum, and we walked around to each side to notice the detail that this magnificent statue embodies.

            We then walked through the city streets, learning much of the history of the city – and a lot about the Medici family. And we could see the Duomo from most of the spots we stopped along the way – since there are restrictions that buildings cannot be built more than 3-4 stories high, to allow the Duomo to forever be the focus of the town. As it should be. The architecture is magnificent, and we walked around the Duomo and the adjacent Baptistry – and our guide pointed out so much of the history.

            Lastly we headed to the Piazza della Signoria and the Loggia dei Lanzi – and went through the history of each of the dozens of statues there. I’d seen pictures of most of these before, but it was spectacular to see them all in one area, and get to walk right up to them.

            And to wrap up my evening, I took a lovely gondola ride along the Arno River at sunset. There are beautiful stone bridges that cross the Arno River, and we gently sailed underneath their arches as Lupo, our gondolier, gently guided our boat along. People line the edges of the river, and we waved to them as we passed under. And a Old Italian Man breaks out into song each evening on one of the bridges, and the crowd joins in – so we were serenaded as we glided along.

            My sister recommended Florence – and she was right, it is beautiful.

DAY 17 –SPANISH STAIRS & TREVI FOUNTAIN

Well, I checked out of my very charming hotel in Rome – Hotel Canada (ironic, huh?) It was a very old hotel, and screemed 1930s – but was clean and refreshed. It had a very old elevator – the type where you have to manually open and close interior and exterior gates, and an old fashioned Bell Hop that took you to your room (and showed you how to work the elevator). And despite the elevator, there were still stairs required to get around. Stairs from the street to the front door, and more stairs from the front door to the check-in desk – and even 3 more stairs to get to the elevator. And all of Rome is like this – I doubt anyone in Rome has ever purchased a StairMaster.

            I left my luggage at the hotel and hopped the Tourbus to go to the Spanish Stairs – holy cow! Now THAT’S a lot of stairs! It’s 135 steps – but seems a lot longer – and it was built in 1725. It’s beautiful – and specifically built to connect the plaza below to the church at the top. It’s a steep slope, and a beautiful view of the church looking up at it from below. Then I walked over to the famous Trevi Fountain – but didn’t get to hop in it (like you see done so often in the movies).

            And another lovely train ride from Rome to Florence. I upgraded to Area Silenzio – which is a car with 14 seats, but there were only 3 passengers. They serve a cute little snack box on these trains, which really helps the time to pass. Airlines in America used to do that, but most barely do cookies and a drink anymore. Too bad, it just makes traveling feel a bit more classy.

            When I got to Florence, I walked to my hotel. It was a busy Saturday night, and the streets were filled with people. The path to the hotel was filled with cute shops, and very narrow sidewalks – barely wide enough for 2 people to pass, let alone with one dragging a suitcase. But walking in the cobblestone streets is not only dangerous, but makes the suitcase twice as difficult. And along the route, the Duomo – a magnificent church, and the dome you can see from everywhere in the city. And just as I got to my hotel, the 7pm bells began to ring.

            Well, hello to you too, Florence!

DAY 16 – VATICAN & SISTENE CHAPEL

That's the Vatican in the background,
from the Vatican Gardens
 -- after a long, hot, sweaty day.

I hopped on the Tourbus again, but this time stopped at the Colosseum. It’s spectacular! It’s amazing to think that it’s almost 2000 years old and has survived all these centuries. I rode around the city, passing hundreds-years-old churches – each one more beautiful and grand.

            Eventually I hopped off to have Spaghetti at a charming old restaurant – and sat at a table on the street (all restaurants have them here) and watched the masses roll by.

            Then, the highlight of my trip to Rome – the Vatican and Sistene Chapel. The Vatican contains a large museum, filled with hundreds of years of statues and paintings. Our guide was very knowledgeable and shared highlights along the way.

            And then we got to Michelangelo’s painting in the Sistene Chapel. No pictures or talking allowed, which did seem appropriate to the reverence the subject matter deserves. I’ve seen pictures of it for years, but there is just something about seeing it in person, in this beautiful chapel – it truly takes your breath away.

            After a long day, I just wanted a taxi to my hotel – so I waited in line. A few rude tourists cut ahead, and those of us in line agreed to the order we should get taxis in. A woman with her college-age daughter took the taxi just before me – but the mother didn’t speak English, and the daughter was discussing the high fare with the taxi driver. He had quoted her twice the expected price – so we quickly chatted, and decided that our hotels were close enough that we would share my taxi (since my driver quoted a much better rate). The drivers were upset that we were skipping the one, but we weren’t going to pay as much as he wanted – so we hopped in and let them be upset. And it was nice to have a few minutes to chat with these lovely women from Finland. And we all saved some money by being willing to share the taxi, just from starting a random conversation on the streets of Rome.

DAY 15 – ARRIVE ROME

Once on the bus to Rome, I immediately fell asleep – just as the sun was rising in Lyon, France. My first sunrise in Europe – but determined not to be my last.

            A short nap later, and I awake to . . . The Alps! It feels like I’m back in Utah, driving to Park City – with the lovely drop in temperature and the clean crisp mountain air. There are miles and miles of tunnels cutting through the hills here – all far too long to hold your breath through (and yes, I did try.)

            Along the hillsides, small town – and even a few small vineyards. This is just the edge of the Alps, and they will be gone soon – but here the clouds hug the hilltops, and you can still feel the morning fog on your skin.

            On the bus, the chatter has transformed from Spanish to Italian – which I also don’t speak, but bits of Mr. Rizzo’s high school Italian Class come rushing back, and my “gracias” has turned into “grazie”..

            One thing that is FAR superior in Europe – the Truck Stop Food. The sandwiches are amazing, fresh fruit is available, and chocolate bars … well, let’s just say that I’m not looking forward to American chocolate.  My Caprese sandwich has thinly sliced ham, ripe tomato slices, homemade mozzarella, and fresh basil leaves. Who wants Subway after that?!?!?

            On a road running parallel to the highway, I see a small red car (probably a Fiat) – and once again I’m an 8-year-old having an imaginary race. I watch the car until the trees get too thick. I won!

            Soon enough we arrive in Rome, and after the very long trip I just wanted to get to the hotel. I stay at a charming hotel, and as soon as I step into my room it feels like the 1930s. It’s clean and comfortable, and I drop my bags and head out for some quick evening exploring – and to find dinner. I walk by a few places, then I find a pizzeria. This isn’t like a pizza place I’ve ever been too – and as soon as I walk through the door, I’m hooked. There are dozens of types of pizza, some I would never imagine on a pizza. And quite honestly, I’m not the biggest pizza fan – but I think this place might have won me over.

DAY 14 – LEAVING BARCELONA

After checking out of my hotel, I had a few hours – so I hopped back on the Tour Bus. Barcelona is wonderful, and I rather wish I had booked more time here. I could just drink up the ambiance and architecture forever. As I walk back generally toward my hotel, I decided to have one last meal here in Barcelona. I had skipped breakfast, and it was now mid-afternoon – with a long evening ahead of me. I order the Fried Camembert with Tomato Jam and then a breakfast dish with potatoes and eggs. And a very brave little sparrow joined me for lunch. [OMG – the camembert was amazing, and the tomato jam was divine. (If you’ve never had tomato jam, I highly recommend it. I mean, tomatoes are a fruit!)]

I grab my luggage from the hotel and head for the Bus Station – which is more like a train station (and nothing like the Greyhound Bus stations in the U.S.) I had such a wonderful time on the City Touring Buses, and the BlaBlaCar was great – so I decided to take the BlaBlaBus from Barcelona to Rome. NOT recommended.

            First – it’s a  L O N G  bus trip of 21-24 hours. And although buses have improved over the years, they still don’t have enough leg room. But mostly, people on the bus are far less considerate. One woman talked on the phone for hours. One older woman watched obnoxious videos without headphones. And the man in front of me reclined his seat all the way, so it was completely in the way. And although the inner-city buses had wifi, the cross-country ones did not. Next time I’m flying!

            And the “transfer point” was at Lyon. On the schedule it looks easy. Off at Lyon, on at Lyon. But they drop you off under an overpass and vaguely point “up”. Oh yeah – at 3am, with the bus & train stations closed. And EVERYTHING in the area closed. The only people around were some homeless men sleeping outside the station.

            Fortunately for me there were 2 young men from Columbia also going to Rome – so we roamed around together for an hour, trying to figure out where out bus would be. All of which would have been MUCH easier if I spoke Spanish or they spoke English, but we got by with Google Translate and a lot of charades. Eventually we got somewhere – and about 5am things started waking up. And at 5:30, as scheduled, the bus to Rome showed up.

DAY 13 – BARCELONA SITES

After a lovely day of just relaxing, I’m ready to head back out. I head to a Pastry Shop to grab a Nutella-filled croissant (genius & delicious!) – and walk back to the Arc de Triompf. Today I’m back on the Tourbus – but this time I spend a bit more time in the lower level of the bus. (The sunburn isn’t quite gone, and I don’t want to risk it.) I hop on the bus, this time to the Sagrada Familia – officially called Basilica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia. It was started in 1882 -- and it still isn't finished! Antoni Gaudi is a very well-known name here in Barcelona, and was the architect of quite a few building around here. Gaudi died in 1926, but his plans continue to be followed. He is quoted as saying "My client (God) is not in a hurry." The outside of the cathedral is spectacular -- and my favorite part of the inside is the amazing windows. Simply spectacular. A "not-to-miss" in Barcelona.

    There is also Casa Mila -- with a HUGE woman's head in front (which sounds rather odd, but it's quite wonderful) -- not to be compared to the Lichtenstein Head down by the waterfront, which is very pop modern.

    I also find a Chocolate Museum. It has chocolate houses (like gingerbread houses) of some of the famous sites in Barcelona -- including the Sagrada Familia (above). Along with equipment and history of chocolate, are the many things they have made in chocolate -- including some amazing animals. And of all the gift shops, this definitely has the best smelling museum store ever! They even have chocolate tiles that match the tiles on the streets of Barcelona. Barcelona Chocolate Factory -- yummmmm!

    And there's the Picasso Museum which has 4251 of his works. The building is spectacular, made up of 5 palaces from the 13th & 14th centuries that have been combined together. And Picasso himself donated much of his work to this museum personally, during his lifetime. We've all seen the "typical Picasso" styles -- but here they also have some of his early works, including a lovely traditional oil self-portrait from when he was a young boy studying art. I don't recall seeing much "traditional style" Picasso art -- but he was classically trained early on, and went on to develop his unique style. It was interesting to see his range and evolution as an artist. I also realize that I missed my calling as a Picasso Model.  

DAY 12 – DAY OF REST (and sunburn) IN BARCELONA

Well, a little too much sun, on top of a lot more walking than I’m used to – and I decided to actually take a day to just Chill & Relax – on vacation.

            I don’t do that very often – just a vacation to relax. I feel like I always need to be going somewhere and doing something. My brother John is really good at taking time away to heal the soul – he definitely knows how to vacation to unwind. Maybe I need to take a lesson from him.

            So today I took the time to sleep in, eat an abundance of fruit and cheese for breakfast, and just hang out at the hotel and relax. And I do mean just relax – no TV, no books, nothing. For some reason I can’t get English subtitles on TV – and the only channels in English are BBC and CNBC (and news is not conducive with relaxing). And American Streaming Services don’t work outside the U.S. – so no movies. And that was probably a good thing. Just time alone with my thoughts (scary, right???)

That I was too sunburned to spend any time outside was definitely a contributing factor (and I was sooooo glad Sandrine had brought me some Aloe in Paris!) Sparkling Water, amazing fresh fruit, and that new blank notebook I bought – perfect way to spend a vacation day.

            I’m not very good at vacationing. I always need to have an agenda. But I’ve decided that it’s OK to give myself permission to just NOT. Not plan anything. Not need to accomplish something. Not need to be going and doing all the time. So, today, I’m Not.

DAY 11 – BUSES IN BARCELONA

I’ve learned that a great way to see a lot of sites is to buy a ticket on a tourbus. Most major cities have them (or multiple versions) and for a reasonable price you can get around to the major attractions. So I started out grabbing fruit and pastry at the local Supermercat, and headed for the Tourbus. This time there are two different routes – each about 2 hours – so I hike to the Open Top of the bus, and sit back to see what there is to see around the beautiful city of Barcelona.

            I start down by the pier, loop through the heart of the city, eventually switch routes, and head up into the hills. The architecture throughout the city is spectacular, and there seems to be an old church in almost every neighborhood. Along the way, the tour highlights a neighborhood known for it’s delicacies, so I hop off for a late lunch. And since I’m in Spain, I decide to get some Paella. Many years ago I had a roommate that served her mission in Spain – and I remember her making Paella. THIS is not what she served us. I have to admit that the very long antennae and the weird little creatures with all the legs were a bit much for me – and I’m a pretty adventurous eater. But once I figured out how to not get the antennae stuck in my teeth, it really was quite delicious. (I opted to not eat the multi-legged creature as it seemed rather rubbery.)

            Back on the bus, and my next stop a Bookstore. I can’t resist a good bookstore – except that all of these books are in Spanish. Oh well!  I opt for a blank notebook and head back for the bus. And my last stop for the day – another Arc de Triumph. This time it’s Arc de Triomf (Paris is Arc de Triomphe.) This one is from the 1888 World’s Fair – and this one is MUCH easier to access.

            In Barcelona there are Supermercat stores EVERYWHERE – like more than every block. Not quite what we would call a “super” market – but more like a neighborhood convenience store that is more focused on groceries than junk food. They have the milk/egg/cheese/break – but also some fruit/veg/meat. So I stop at one close to my hotel and grab some sort of meat pie (and more fruit, of course, I’m addicted!) I take it back to the hotel and settle in for the evening.